Escapees

Escapees

Today's forecast was for rain and low cloud, so a long walk up in the hills was not particularly appealing. The shortened railway walk would at least get us out for a bit of exercise and we could buy a few provisions at the end. (Monday being market day)

As we started our walk, it was already raining steadily, but it had not at that point set in for the day. (Well, you have to be optimistic!) It was a little squelchy as we crossed the sheep fields along the line of the footpath. The kissing gate at Stenkrith Park had been left unlatched by someone, but we secured it once we'd gone through. (Don't want to give walkers a bad press!) The sounds from the River Eden were not as loud as they had been on Saturday afternoon. Sure enough, when we crossed the footbridge at Stenkrith Falls, there was very little water coming down and it was being channelled by the slab-like river bed. We had had a dry day yesterday, so it was hardly surprising.

Little water at Stenkrith Falls

We turned onto the disused railway once more. It was raining more heavily now and it was raining leaves too, as the breeze was tearing the few remaining leaves from their branches. We hadn't yet reached the first old railway bridge that crosses the walk. We hadn't come across anyone out walking. It was too late for the early morning dog walkers and, what with the rain and it being a work day, we didn't expect to meet anyone. However, we were surprised to come across a posse of sheep.

About 100m ahead of us, a couple of sheep were slowly walking across the hardened footpath. Naturally, we stopped. They simply shouldn't have been there. Looking to our left, amongst the trees and surrounding a stone that forms part of the 'Poetry' path, we saw at least another eight or so. They were happily enjoying their new territory. Over to the right, other sheep were making their bid for freedom from a field. We didn't investigate where they were escaping from. Who should we tell? There were no obvious farm buildings nearby.

Bid for freedom

Very quickly, we reached the Hartley road and, before long, we were back in the market place. What to do about the sheep? Well, we reported the breakout bid. 

They say that, 'The grass is always greener on the other side'. I'm sure the sheep were having a great time exploring beyond their normal boundary, but their field was definitely more lush. Hopefully, the farmer would get them safely gathered back in.

Once again... there was something new... something surprising... that changed the day and the walk from being far from ordinary.

Railway & Riverside

Railway & Riverside - Kirkby Stephen

3.5 Miles

Today was the inaugural walk for my new boots.

With the prospect of a walk up Raise, in the Lake District National Park, to look forward to in the middle of the week, I decided that I should treat the boots (and my feet) to a short, flat walk. The previous ones had certainly walked some miles... two long distance footpaths and numerous day walks, but they had not had the best care and attention and it was starting to show.

From the market square in Kirkby Stephen, we walked south down the main street until we came to a public footpath sign at South Road. The boots seemed strange on the feet as they have a deeper sole - I appeared to have grown another inch. We turned through a gate and walked across a couple of grass fields, before coming to another clearly marked gate taking us through another field. A kissing gate gave us entry onto Nateby Road, where we turned right. After a little road walking, we turned into Stenkrith Park through a gate. (We were now on our favourite railway walk). We could hear that we were not far from the River Eden. We had had a day of rain yesterday, so we were curious to find out just how much water would be coming down the falls just underneath Stenkrith Bridge. The usual visible riverbed channels were submerged under the torrent of water. Quite a sight.

Stenkrith waterfall

 Onwards onto the actual disused railway we continued. It doesn't matter how many times we've walked this way, there's always something different. Many of the trees had shed their leaves, others were yellowing or browning. The way was carpeted for us in many hues. 

Person, or persons unknown had been along to coppice some of the trees since we'd last come this way. There was good visibility of Tailbridge Hill, but the hills of the Northern Pennines looked dark in the distance. I quietly (and briefly) tried out the acoustic under one of the bridges we passed under, and then it wasn't long before we had crossed both viaducts and joined the Hartley Road. So, a little bit of downhill. The boots held my feet well; they didn't slip forward...so far so good.

We took a little footpath off to the left to avoid a bit of the road before rejoining it at NY783085. 

FP avoiding the road

 This was Hartley. We stayed on the road, keeping the beck on our left until we came to NY783086. Here we crossed a small narrow footbridge. We turned left and then right (passing the parish noticeboard) into a narrow road serving just a couple of dwellings. We continued along the walled footpath to a small gate (now without its fastening) and continued on the hard surfaced path through a field, keeping the wall on our right. A kissing gate brought us beside the River Eden once more and the approach to Frank's Bridge. 

Rather than cross the river, we took the muddy, grass footpath at NY776087 through the cricket ground and over a footbridge to meet with the Hartley Road again.

Riverside FP

This was new territory. We walked north to Lowmill Bridge. Here, we took the riverside footpath on the eastern side of the river. In places the path came down to near river level, but hidden tree roots were the potential hazards for the unwary. The water was rushing along as if late... no time to stop.  

River Eden

No turgid, sluggish river here. The footpath brought us to another small footbridge over another gushing watercourse which joined the Eden on our left. We joined the road from a small gate at NY774095 and crossed over New Bridge. 

This was the main road into Kirkby Stephen from the north. We could have just followed it along the path into the town, but we decided to take the riverside footpath on the western side of the Eden. Our destination was a sawmill... intriguing! It was clear that much has been done to make this initial part of the footpath an amenity, as many young trees have been planted. 

To our surprise a stone seat had also been built. Further along, nearer to the river, a metal bench of the typical 'park' variety had been placed for contemplation. Before long, the path narrowed and passed behind first commercial buildings, and then private homes with immaculate looking gardens. We walked through a gate and a covered archway to find ourselves in the yard of the sawmill. I don't know why, (the signpost had said sawmill) but it still seemed a strange destination for the end of a footpath.

We were back at Lowmill Bridge, but on the town side of it. (NY775090) Rather than join the main road, we kept to the side road ahead of us, heading south with the church in front of us. At NY775088, we took the footpath through the churchyard and cloisters back to our starting point, the market square.

Kirkby Stephen church

I'm sure the extension to the railway walk will become a favourite. It's lovely every now and again to be able to go for a walk without needing to take a map. 

The boots? Well, the boots were somewhat mud splattered, but the feet were dry. All being well, they'll get another outing tomorrow.

Mallerstang Fix

Mallerstang Fix

I have always been drawn to the gritty, remote beauty of Mallerstang with the fledgling River Eden in its centre and flanked by the High Seat range on the east and Wild Boar Fell on the west. Once described by David Bellamy as ’the last wild place of England’ it is not hard to see why. It does not possess the tourist trappings of some of its neighbouring and more favoured Yorkshire Dales, though it does have the magnificent Settle to Carlisle railway running through its heart and glorious views. So on a beautiful Autumn afternoon, I set off to get another Mallerstang fix. How good to be able to walk to do this without needing a car!

Crossing the Eden at Stenkrith Bridge, it was obvious that the river had lost its swollen identity from earlier in the month when it was an angry torrent. Now much more benign, it barely covered the rocks it passed over on its way to the Solway Firth. The bridleway to Nateby was still very wet though but pleasant in the warm sun. On reaching Nateby, I remembered the last time we had walked here when the children, on summer holiday, were engaged in a grand scale water fight during one of the warmer summer days! It was silent today as I made my way towards the footpath to cross the Swaledale road.

Having reached Mire Cross Bridge, crossing over the Eden again, it was time to swing left across green fields which, surprisingly, housed no sheep. Lammerside Castle came into view and the ruins looked stunning against the sunlit Mallerstang Edge.

Lammerside Castle with Mallerstang Edge behind

The bridleway continued up to and under the railway line and after another wet area I reached the Tommy Road. Looking back, the dry stone walls and barns which characterise the area were very prominent in the sun against the backdrop of the Northern Pennines.

Drystone walls

Several cars were parked on the edge of the road with people taking in the views but I was surprised by the appearance of about ten wild fell ponies grazing close to and across the road. They appeared from nowhere so it seemed. I decided to get a better view of Mallerstang than the car owners or the ponies by climbing up Birkett Common and I was not disappointed! The whole of the valley was in sunlight, Pendragon Castle at its entrance and the Water Cut on Lady Anne’s Highway in the distance. The Nab of Wild Boar Fell was clearly visible as was a drift of smoke from a bonfire somewhere near Outhgill. Sheep were being rounded up on the High Seat side, the voices of the farmers carrying in the windless air. An excellent spot to see the extent, and beauty, of Mallerstang without expending too much energy on elevation!

I continued down Birkett Common to join the bridleway back to Lammerside discovering that this was where all the sheep were hiding. 

Birkett Common & the River Eden

Perhaps they were the next to be rounded up? I continued back to Mire Cross Bridge but carried straight on, passing the huge Wharton Hall Farm with its ruined gatehouse and on to Halfpenny House.

Wharton Hall gatehouse

Glancing back, I took my final look at this desolate but beautiful dale. Finally it was all downhill to home where the lure of a cup of tea was spurring me on. 

I had had my Mallerstang fix and had not been disappointed!  

Blowing the Cobwebs Away

Blowing the Cobwebs Away

For one reason or another, it's been a little while since our last walk. The weather has certainly conspired against us. We had sat and watched raindrops chasing down the windowpanes and a river whooshing down the road, but finally the rain had stopped and the sun was shining. Time to get the boots on.

We started off along our favourite Eden Valley Viaduct walk. The rain of the previous days had washed the top surface of the cinder type pathway away in places, but that came as no surprise given the amount of water that had fallen from leaden skies. It was lovely walking along with the sun filtering through the trees. In no time at all we had crossed the two viaducts and joined the minor road which climbed round Hartley Quarry. Here, the road steepened and we quickly gained height. Kirkby Stephen looked lovely, nestling down below. The Northern Pennines and the Howgills were sunning themselves. The view is never disappointing. Onwards and upwards. We passed the farm with the llamas in the field and very soon reached the wooden chair on access land. After a quick slurp of water whilst enjoying the ever widening panorama, we were off again.

Our tick-off features were soon reached...

• the tiny stretch of duckboarding
• the wide green swarth
• the high banked section
• the broken barn in the wall
• the finger post
• the sheepfold
• the stone chair
• Faraday Gill

Needless to say, it came as no surprise to find the route wet, but we did wonder how sloppy it would get further up near to the summit. We came to the little wooden plank bridge. Judicially placed stones enabled us to step onto the bridge. As you can see, there was quite a bit of water lying on the path the other side of it too.

Not far to go. Not too bad. 
Passed the first set of redundant, wooden 'risers', and then a thinner, second set (equally redundant). The worst section of the path by far is that part just short of the summit. It was a veritable quagmire. Black, oozy peat. It was a case of crossing it the best way that you could.

 

The cairns on top of Nine Standards Rigg stood alone. Normally, there are several people atop enjoying the views or taking a rest before continuing on their way either back into the Upper Eden Valley, or onwards to Swaledale. It was wonderful to have the summit all to ourselves. We selected a cairn with a horizontal 'shelf' seat around it and ate our lunch on the sheltered side. Visibility was very good and we could make out white industrial buildings way over to the east on the other side of the Pennines. From the direction of the firing ranges near Warcop, the crump and boom of firing could be heard. Other than that, it was just the sound of the breeze.

Fluffy clouds framed the view of the Upper Eden Valley. Over to the north on the fellside of Nine Standards, a farm vehicle deposited a group with dogs. Were they assessing the ground for grouse? Were they checking on sheep? We wouldn't find out. It started to grow colder and we donned our outer shell before making our way to the viewfinder. The sky had clouded over and making its way across the Howgills and Orton fells was raincloud. It was coming our way. It's always tempting to think that you're 'Only just going up there', so you don't need to pack so much in the rucksack. Fortunately, we've always packed for any weather, and today was no different.

Our descent to the wooden chair and the tarmac road was reasonably quick. We passed just two lone walkers, one with a dog, who were heading upwards. Somewhere below us, was the whine of a chainsaw. These three beauties posed for us. Would they be rounded up later to be pampered, shown and sold at one of the big sales nearby? By now it was starting to rain.

We're becoming accustomed to the sudden and generous lashings of rain that give Upper Eden a verdant appearance. Often shortlived, but sometimes prolonged rain seems to fall in so many guises. We need a whole new vocabulary to describe the nuances of rain. This was wetting. We made rapid progress along the minor road that served probably a couple of farms. The llamas chewed their grass and looked superior. White smoke still billowed from the quarry. The rooftops of Kirkby Stephen glistened. Abundant, scarlet berries bejewelled the trees.

We turned onto the viaduct walk. Overhanging trees dripped, but sheltered us from the worst of the rain which was starting to abate. 

Refreshed and renewed, it seems there's always something new on this increasingly familiar walk.

Smardale Gill Circular

Smardalegill Circular 

12 miles

A relatively low level ramble; we walked this circular at the end of July. 

We started from the market place in Kirkby Stephen and headed north before turning into Silver Street and Christian Head. Just past the entrance to Kirkby Stephen Grammar School, we turned left into Bloody Bones Lane, leaving the tarmac behind. Our gently climbing route followed a field boundary in an westerly direction. We had a choice of paths at a field gate. Seeing cows and their young, we avoided them by taking a footpath along a farm track and through the farmyard at Sandwath. Our presence prompted a chorus of barking from the residents of kennels there. We were pleased to reach the quiet of a minor road and set off down it for some 500 metres or so until we reached the second of two bridges over railway cuttings.

Waitby Nature Reserve

Steps down gave access to Waitby nature reserve (a dismantled railway). Walking west, we followed the curve of the former line. It was a peaceful walk along a permissive path, brightened by all manner of wild flowers just reaching perfection.

The nature reserve path came out at Smardale Hall. We followed Beck Lane for 100 metres before turning south into a car park which served the start of the Smardale Gill National Nature Reserve. 

Signage in the car park

Car parks often signal popularity. Along this stretch of our walk we met several people out for a stroll through the wooded Demesne Wood.  Before long, we were heading south and enjoying a light shower. Eventually, the rain ceased and we came to the impressive curve of Smardalegill Viaduct. We could have continued over the viaduct, but we wanted to be able to see the product of Victorian engineering and toil.

We left broad way, taking a small footpath which contoured the hillside. We left the strollers, who preferred to cross the viaduct. Our picnic spot had an unrivalled view of the viaduct and Scandal Beck far below. As we munched, thoughts inevitably turned to the hundreds and maybe thousands who must have laboured in difficult conditions, without the benefit of 'health and safety', to make the transport of raw materials and eventually passengers possible in the nineteenth century. The beauty of the structure was not in question. It was only spoilt by the late twentieth century addition of railing to protect foot traffic.

Smardalegill Viaduct

Onwards and upwards. Our footpath took us to a stile, which we crossed, before heading down a little until we joined up with the bridleway that forms part of Wainwright's Coast to Coast route. Down to the right was the old Smardale Bridge. Our route, however, turned east up over the access land on Smardale Fell. It was a steady up as we followed a wall boundary. Here, once again, we noticed that the drystone walls were a mixture of grey and the red of sandstone. We had noticed the change in land colour some two years previously when we walked the Coast to Coast route. We had been amazed at the vibrant earth that had characterised the west coast of England near to St. Bees. From now on we would be following the route taken by 'coasters' on their approach to Kirkby Stephen.

Looking back to Smardalegill Viaduct from near Smardale Bridge

The bridleway ran alongside two closely parallel walls which reminded me of a gallops. Behind us, the Howgills were being threatened by ominous looking clouds which were following us. Would we be pulling our wet weather clothes from our rucksacks? Ahead, high on the skyline, were the tiny cairns guarding Nine Standards Rigg. We headed downhill to a minor road. We turned south west along it for 150 metres and took another small road off to the left. After another 150 metres, we were heading off across the fields along a clearly visible footpath. We passed underneath the Settle-Carlisle railway line and continued through fields of photogenic sheep to Greenriggs Farm. Skirting the farm buildings, we joined up with Croglam Lane which eventually runs parallel with the main road through Kirkby Stephen.

Croglam Lane

We continued along the lane until we came to a small children's playground. Turning right onto a narrow tarmac road, we joined Kirkby Stephen High Street. A left turn took us back in the direction of the market place.

It had been a lovely walk of varied terrain. As we had walked over Smardale Fell we were treated to wonderful views of the Pennines. Until the last, Kirkby Stephen had stubbornly refused to reveal itself as we approached. 

Oh... and we managed to stay dry!

Wild Boar Fell & Swarth Fell

Wild Boar Fell & Swarth Fell

...because he can...

The Nab from the path up to High Dolphinsty

 

This walk has been much anticipated and today was the day. Monday, 3rd September 2012, 'We're walking up Wild Boar fell'. The MWIS forecast was looking promising.

The final few metres to The Nab

As we started our walk, feather-light cloud was hovering around the Nab of Wild Boar Fell. We crossed Thrang Bridge and started across the fields to Hazelgill Farm. From here the route steepened as we walked under the Settle-Carlisle rail line. Heading due west, we followed a bridleway over rough ground up the fellside. We noticed limestone pavement to our left. The route steepened as we walked the last 300 metres to the wall at High Dolphinsty.

Trig point - Wild Boar Fell

Cloud was swirling around near the top of Wild Boar Fell as we headed south from High Dolphinsty and steadily walked upwards. An hour and a half after starting our walk, we reached the Tumulus at The Nab. Not much of a view. Clouds were being blown across the fellside from the west and the trig point was not visible. Although a muddy, grassy path was visible for some 200 metres, we took a bearing to ensure that we headed towards the trig point, which was some 450 metres distant. It was very wet underfoot and care was needed to ensure that we didn't get a bootful. We were at the trig point before very long, cloud still swirling around and visibility still quite poor. Given the conditions, we didn't linger, so we retraced our steps using a back bearing to the tumulus at The Nab. 

AB, Wild Boar standard and cloud

Again we headed almost south along the top of Yoadcomb Scar until we reached the tall cairns along the ridge. They appeared mysterious set against the cloud, standing guard on the edge of the hillside. Although thinner than the cairns on Nine Standards Rigg, they were every bit as beautiful. I suspect they are less visited too. From here we caught sight of the trig point in the distance, surrounded by a small wall as the cloud lifted. The three-walled windshelter near the cairns was a great place for a coffee break. Down in the Mallerstang valley, it was sunny. 

Swarth Fell

We climbed a ladder stile over a wire fence and followed it over rough, wet fellside. Eventually, we descended from the Wild Boar plateau with the wire fence on our right until it became a stone wall. Here, there was a stretch of water to our left, but the wall to our right was our guide up onto Swarth Fell. We left the wall to the summit cairn for the traditional photo before dropping down a little out of the wind amongst the rocks for lunch. The cloud had lifted and we had a clear view of the Wild Boar cairns and the valley of Mallerstang. Spotting a red anorak in the distance, we quickly set off walking parallel with the wall some 50 metres to our right. A clear, soggy grass path stretched out in front of us. The wall to our right became a wire fence once more as we ascended up onto Swarth Fell Pike. At the point where there was a stile in the fence, we turned north-east and made our way down the fellside, crossing Smithy Gill. It was wet and slippery with springy vegetation underfoot.

We crossed the Mallerstang Road at Aisgill Moor Cottages. Here, the road was decorated with roadsigns welcoming us to Cumbria in one direction, whilst proclaiming us to be in North Yorkshire, the Yorkshire Dales National Park and Richmondshire in the other. We crossed the road in 'no man's land', before walking over a bridge which crossed the railway line. 150 metres along a bridleway brought us to Hellgill Force. It was a pretty spot. Trees to the side of the waterfall were already covered with bright red berries. From here, a public footpath took us up past Hellgill Farm to a bridge of the same name.

Hellgill Force

Joining a byway, we walked northwards along a broad green swarth (Hellgill Wold) with sheep grazing on either side. As we walked along, to our left, the top of Wild Boar Fell and Swarth Fell was cloaked in cloud once again. Soon, we arrived at the Watercut, and from then on our route along the Pennine Bridleway gradually descended to the Mallerstang road. 

Wild Boar Fell from the Pennine Bridleway

It had been a fabulous walk taking in two of the Yorkshire 600s that we'd not walked before. Not another soul had passed us all day. No rain. Not too hot. Lovely picnic.

Monday, 3rd september 2012 - what a great day for AB - ...because he could.

Nine Standards Rigg & Tailbridge Hill

Nine Standards Rigg & Tailbridge Hill

Circular from Kirkby Stephen - 10 miles

Waking to a beautiful blue sky punctuated by white fluffy clouds, today was an opportunity to visit an old friend and make acquaintance with a new one.

Hedgerow - viaduct walk

Coast to Coasters tend to leave Kirkby Stephen by way of the pretty market place and Frank's Bridge as they start walking to Nine Standards Rigg and the watershed. Our route followed a fingerpost in South Road across a couple of fields before entering Stenkrith park to join the Merrygill and Podgill viaduct walk. After crossing the second of viaducts, we came out onto the road that skirts Hartley quarry. 

Tarmac becomes track

As the road climbed, the views became more breathtaking. The Eden Valley, the Howgills, Mallerstang and the Northern Pennines. The metalled road became cobbled track up the bridleway on Hartley Fell. A beautiful, high-backed, wooden seat provided in memory of a man who clearly loved the spot, gave us the excuse to stop, take in the view and rehydrate. It was a warm day and we were going to need to drink plenty of water. We followed a wall until a fingerpost signalled a permissive path, which for a while followed the course of Faraday Gill. A runner, back pack swinging from side to side, passed us. It looked like hard work. 

Tailbridge Hill from our route up Nine Standards Rigg

The summit cairns came into view, disappeared and reappeared as we walked further up. A wooden bridge and some judiciously placed pieces of stone enabled passage over a boggy bit of the pathway. Some wooden steps had long since become redundant as the top soil had eroded from the many footsteps made by the unknown numbers who journey this way each year. Today was a dry day and the path up was relatively easy, but we were still very surprised to see a pink sparkly pair of flip flop sandals start their descent of the hill. The stuff of nightmares - the stubbed toes - the potential broken ankle - the broken leg - the callout to mountain rescue. You do wonder!

High Dukerdale from Hartley Fell

From the cairns, we made our way to the hillfinder before taking a bearing to a bridleway at Rollinson Haggs. As the name suggests, it was squelchy underfoot and there was some careful negotiation across vegetation that we knew to be bog lovers. A fairly quick descent took us across Rollinson Gill and down to a stone wall. From here we discovered the little gem of Dukerdale lit by the afternoon sunshine. We sat just a short while before taking a bearing to the summit cairn of Tailbridge Hill, our second objective. Although a path could be seen in the grass from our starting point, it may have petered out. It was a gentle up, and before very long we were standing next to quite a substantial cairn. 

Tailbridge Hill cairn

What we had not forseen was the view here on Nateby Common. It was wonderful. The village of Nateby, its neighbour, Kirkby Stephen and the hills that surround the Upper Eden Valley. A good place to finish the last of the coffee and drink in the surroundings.

Taking in the view from Tailbridge Hill

Carefully, we dropped down quite quickly to a stone wall. We followed it until we joined the minor Nateby road, coming full circle at Stenkrith Bridge. Looking down we saw where we had joined the viaduct walk earlier in the day.

Looking back towards Tailbridge Hill

From the familiar to the new - Tailbridge Hill had been a revelation. Earlier in the day we had shared our walking plans with a passing dog walker. 

'That will be a nice walk.'

Rather an understatement.

 

Mallerstang Ridge Walk

Mallerstang Ridge Walk

8.5 miles

It promised to be an ideal walking day; not too hot and the clouds high in the sky. We found a parking space at The Thrang, just off the B6259.

Wild Boar Fell

Turning onto the Pennine Bridleway (part of Lady Ann's HIghway), we steadily climbed the fellside on a clear track. Glorious views of both Mallerstang Edge and Wild Boar Fell, the other side of the valley, were to be had. On the western side of the valley a train on the Settle to Carlisle line ran on schedule. On the fellside horizon ahead sat a monument being visited by a couple of other walkers. Lowland leg muscles gradually warmed up as we approached The Watercut. A stone monument of two halves, the space between resembled a river. Peering through, we were rewarded with a wonderful view of the upper Eden valley.

The Watercut

We continued along a levelled off bridleway to Hell Gill Bridge. Much to our surprise, from the south, came a steam train emitting great plumes of white steam. It must have been one of the occasional 'specials' that run at weekends. A bonus sight.

Hell Gill Beck

After crossing the bridge, we left the bridleway and followed the edge of Hell Gill Beck over rough ground. It was hard going... wet in places and at others the grasses were thigh high. We crossed a stile over a fence and followed it up the fellside. The terrain changed at Scarth of Scaiths with peat hags, cotton grass and bog-loving plants the order of the day. Carefully and fleet of foot, we picked our way through finding drier grassy tufts. We continued to follow the fence up steeper ground again as we headed north.

Scarth of Scaiths

On Hugh Seat we made our way to Lady's Pillar where we stopped for our picnic. To the north and east miles of fellside stretched out. To the west stood Wild Boar Fell. To the south we were surprised to see all three Yorkshire 'Three Peaks' in relief. Flat topped Ingleborough and Pen-y-Ghent's lion were easily identified. Whernside, from this viewpoint, seemed so much more impressive.

Whernside from Lady's Pillar

Our route was waymarked with cairns and the visibility was very good. Nevertheless, we took bearings and measured distances on our OS map to calculate ETAs to practise our skills. It wasn't long before we were at Gregory's Chapel. (pile of stones) Then we were heading north up to High Seat. (another misnomer) From here The Eden Valley was spread out before us in the valley below.

The way down from Mallerstang Edge

To return to the valley we headed west. We descended quickly for 350m before the ground dropped away very steeply at Trough Riggs. Far down down below, it seemed, we could see the wall of a field enclosure where we needed to join a track. I don't mind admitting I felt a little concerned about how we would get down. We reccied possibilities. Craggy rocks and waterfalls. Finally, we took the plunge and carefully zig-zagged our way down a steep grassy slope, taking time to lean into the hillside. Height was lost quickly and as we looked back at the ridge it was hard to believe that we had come down it. It had been quite exhilarating. We continued along an indistinct path until we reaced Outhgill. 

Mallerstang Edge

More treats were in store as we came across an Andy Goldsworthy 'cone' at the side of a cottage garden. We turned south onto the B6259. We passed the 'Jew' stone and a squirrel bridge as we returned to the parking spot.

We had passed just a handful of other walkers on the whole walk. A great walk.