Yarlside & The Calf

Yarlside & The Calf

To the heart of the Howgills 

12 Miles

Several years ago we had reached The Calf, the highest point in the Howgill Fells at 676 metres, from Sedbergh. Today, though, I wanted to reach it from the northern side of the Howgills taking in Bowderdale, Yarlside and the Andy Goldsworthy sheepfold and cairn above Cautley Spout. The weather was set fair, cold but fine, with a forecast that suggested better weather later in the day.

Having parked at Bowderdale I set off up the bridleway which goes the full length of Bowderdale, and indeed to The Calf. My route was to cross the beck where Hazel Gill joins it and ascend the ridge of Yarlside. It was three miles to my turning point but Bowderdale, without having the wow factor of the Lakes, does have a quiet solitude which is tranquil and calming.

Yarlside from Bowderdale

Yarlside, my first target, was straight ahead and having crossed the beck and taken a compass bearing, headed straight for the top! After a steady pull which afforded good views of Randygill Top and Kensgriff I reached the cairn.

Yarlside summit cairn

Views could be had of Wild Boar Fell, Swarth Fell and Baugh Fell and in the distance the Three Peaks. Also evident was the onward route to The Calf. It was cold at the top (638 metres) so I moved down to a col and descended to a sheltered coffee stop overlooking Cautley Crag and Spout.

Cautley Crag & Spout

I made a steep descent back to Bowderdale Beck, crossing over and climbimg above Cautley Crag, into Red Gill. The views down Cautley Spout were spectacular in the improving weather. A thin track took me to the next objective, the Andy Goldsworthy washfold with built in cairn. This large sheepfold is only accessible on foot but well worth the effort as it is a wonderful example of the genre. There were even sheep grazing by it!

Andy Goldsworthy sheepfold & cairn

My route from the fold was clear, straight up to Bram Rigg Top, which has the main route from Sedbergh to The Calf running across it. On reaching this track I turned in a northerly direction and reached the trig point on The Calf’s summit. There were excellent all round views of the Lakeland fells in the west this time, along with the Lune Valley. This was the lunch spot but it was a brief one as the wind was bitterly cold. 

The Calf trig point

My return route was a ridge walk above Bowderdale in the east and Langdale in the west.

Although the path was very clear, it was wet and slippery in many places, showing the extent of the rainfall in the summer. The views over to Yarlside, Randygill Top and Green Bell were outstanding with the sun fully out now, and my earlier climb of Yarlside obvious to see. 

Yarlside ridge

The roller-coaster route went up and down  Hazelgill Knott and West Fell, which afforded excellent views back to Cobbles and The Calf.

View to Cobbles & The Calf

 I soon reached the wall from where I had set off down Bowderdale and retraced my steps to the car.

The 12 mile walk (2500 feet of ascent) showed the best aspects of the Howgill Fells. In good weather it is easy to make progress and get to know the lie of the land. The views from the summits are excellent.  The access land arrangements mean that the walker can go virtually anywhere without too much difficulty and the peaceful solitude of quiet walking is blissful! A return to another part of this quiet area will be soon!

 

Water Crag & Rogan Seat

Water Crag & Rogan Seat

... a circular walk from Tan Hill Inn...

(Approximately 12 miles)

A fine day was forecast and there was good visibility as we put our boots on. Today's objective (in the true sense of the word) was to 'bag' a couple of Yorkshire 600s. I would be lying if I proclaimed the first three miles of this walk 'fun', because it wasn't, unless your idea of fun is to trample up over calf-high heather moorland.

Bridleway from William Gill

It started off promisingly enough, for the first 50 metres or so... a clear track heading south-easterly. Fantastic... the map showed a bridleway. (The equivalent of walking on a motorway in the countryside) Having taken a bearing and estimated how long it would take to reach a certain position, we left the track and followed the non-bridleway. Heather, rough grass and hidden water channels slowed us down as we ascended the moorland. Negotiating our way down and up steepsided gills also proved challenging. All the time we were walking on a bearing with no discernible path (let alone a bridleway) to be seen. Eventually, we came to William Gill, a significant down and up. Across the gill, for the first time, was a feature recognisable as something approaching a path heading east - which we wanted. We were still heading upwards along Great Scollit Hill. The bridleway was boggy, peaty and squelchy, so we kept to the edge of it. A line of grouse butts sat on either side of it. We timed our progress along it as it eventually became a single person well defined track. Here the going was much easier. Sadly, we needed to leave this track just before we reached Annaside Edge.

Bridleway on Great Scollit Hill

We took another bearing which had us heading south, initially at the side of a watercourse. Once again we were heading upwards over pathless rough grass and heather. True grouse territory. Managed water channels were sunk into the hillside. With a certain degree of satisfaction, our bearing took us directly to the trig point on Water Crag. It was a flat plateau. To the east was a small stone wind shelter. To the west was a pile of stones. We really were in the middle of nowhere.

Pile of stones on Water Crag

After a quick cup of coffee, we headed for the pile of stones and handrailed our way along a fence in a south-easterly direction to Rogan's Seat. Here we came to a well made farmers shooting track.

A handy fence along our route to Rogan's Seat

We veered off it to reach the high point on Rogan's Seat which sat atop a peaty hag. A misnomer if ever there was one. (A small pile of stones - whichever way you looked at it you could not have described it as a seat) 

Rogan's Seat - pile of stones

We rejoined the shooting track. To our amazement, a man sat in an open-backed trailer with radio equipment and a massive aerial strapped to it. It seemed he had been participating in a 'radio' competition.

Moor track through peat hags

Progress along the shooting track was very quick as it curved between massive peat hags. Before very long we came to the track that served the Coast to Coast route. We headed west, eventually heading down East Grain and crossing the picturesque Swinner Gill over the bridge that once served the mine buildings. We continued onwards to Crackpot Hall, sadly derelict with its stones returning to the earth. With a view of the River Swale, we sat to eat our lunch in the sunshine.

Path down East Grain

We resisted the temptation to stop in Keld by the waterfalls, instead taking the Pennine Way northwards. The path climbed steadily and we soon gained height. We had excellent views of Keld from here. The Pennine Way passed through the non access land near to Frith Lodge.

Frith Lodge from the Pennine Way

 Once again we marvelled at its isolation high on the hillside near Low Brown Hill and its amazing 'driveway' from the West Stonesdale Road. The Pennine Way crossed Lad Gill by way of a gated slab bridge before climbing once more as it threaded through Stonedale Moor. It was with some relief that the way flattened out again and soon we had the Tan Hill Inn in sight.

Cairn on the Pennine Way

The walk had improved immeasurably once we could make rapid progress as the going underfoot was easier and we were on familiar territory. I wouldn't entertain the first part of the walk if it was wet and the visibility was poor. Compass and map skills, I would suggest, were essential. However, that's it... we have bagged two Yorkshire 600s in one day. Would I venture that way again? I would have to be persuaded.

The end in sight - Tan Hill Inn

 

Wild Boar Fell & Swarth Fell

Wild Boar Fell & Swarth Fell

...because he can...

The Nab from the path up to High Dolphinsty

 

This walk has been much anticipated and today was the day. Monday, 3rd September 2012, 'We're walking up Wild Boar fell'. The MWIS forecast was looking promising.

The final few metres to The Nab

As we started our walk, feather-light cloud was hovering around the Nab of Wild Boar Fell. We crossed Thrang Bridge and started across the fields to Hazelgill Farm. From here the route steepened as we walked under the Settle-Carlisle rail line. Heading due west, we followed a bridleway over rough ground up the fellside. We noticed limestone pavement to our left. The route steepened as we walked the last 300 metres to the wall at High Dolphinsty.

Trig point - Wild Boar Fell

Cloud was swirling around near the top of Wild Boar Fell as we headed south from High Dolphinsty and steadily walked upwards. An hour and a half after starting our walk, we reached the Tumulus at The Nab. Not much of a view. Clouds were being blown across the fellside from the west and the trig point was not visible. Although a muddy, grassy path was visible for some 200 metres, we took a bearing to ensure that we headed towards the trig point, which was some 450 metres distant. It was very wet underfoot and care was needed to ensure that we didn't get a bootful. We were at the trig point before very long, cloud still swirling around and visibility still quite poor. Given the conditions, we didn't linger, so we retraced our steps using a back bearing to the tumulus at The Nab. 

AB, Wild Boar standard and cloud

Again we headed almost south along the top of Yoadcomb Scar until we reached the tall cairns along the ridge. They appeared mysterious set against the cloud, standing guard on the edge of the hillside. Although thinner than the cairns on Nine Standards Rigg, they were every bit as beautiful. I suspect they are less visited too. From here we caught sight of the trig point in the distance, surrounded by a small wall as the cloud lifted. The three-walled windshelter near the cairns was a great place for a coffee break. Down in the Mallerstang valley, it was sunny. 

Swarth Fell

We climbed a ladder stile over a wire fence and followed it over rough, wet fellside. Eventually, we descended from the Wild Boar plateau with the wire fence on our right until it became a stone wall. Here, there was a stretch of water to our left, but the wall to our right was our guide up onto Swarth Fell. We left the wall to the summit cairn for the traditional photo before dropping down a little out of the wind amongst the rocks for lunch. The cloud had lifted and we had a clear view of the Wild Boar cairns and the valley of Mallerstang. Spotting a red anorak in the distance, we quickly set off walking parallel with the wall some 50 metres to our right. A clear, soggy grass path stretched out in front of us. The wall to our right became a wire fence once more as we ascended up onto Swarth Fell Pike. At the point where there was a stile in the fence, we turned north-east and made our way down the fellside, crossing Smithy Gill. It was wet and slippery with springy vegetation underfoot.

We crossed the Mallerstang Road at Aisgill Moor Cottages. Here, the road was decorated with roadsigns welcoming us to Cumbria in one direction, whilst proclaiming us to be in North Yorkshire, the Yorkshire Dales National Park and Richmondshire in the other. We crossed the road in 'no man's land', before walking over a bridge which crossed the railway line. 150 metres along a bridleway brought us to Hellgill Force. It was a pretty spot. Trees to the side of the waterfall were already covered with bright red berries. From here, a public footpath took us up past Hellgill Farm to a bridge of the same name.

Hellgill Force

Joining a byway, we walked northwards along a broad green swarth (Hellgill Wold) with sheep grazing on either side. As we walked along, to our left, the top of Wild Boar Fell and Swarth Fell was cloaked in cloud once again. Soon, we arrived at the Watercut, and from then on our route along the Pennine Bridleway gradually descended to the Mallerstang road. 

Wild Boar Fell from the Pennine Bridleway

It had been a fabulous walk taking in two of the Yorkshire 600s that we'd not walked before. Not another soul had passed us all day. No rain. Not too hot. Lovely picnic.

Monday, 3rd september 2012 - what a great day for AB - ...because he could.

Nine Standards Rigg & Tailbridge Hill

Nine Standards Rigg & Tailbridge Hill

Circular from Kirkby Stephen - 10 miles

Waking to a beautiful blue sky punctuated by white fluffy clouds, today was an opportunity to visit an old friend and make acquaintance with a new one.

Hedgerow - viaduct walk

Coast to Coasters tend to leave Kirkby Stephen by way of the pretty market place and Frank's Bridge as they start walking to Nine Standards Rigg and the watershed. Our route followed a fingerpost in South Road across a couple of fields before entering Stenkrith park to join the Merrygill and Podgill viaduct walk. After crossing the second of viaducts, we came out onto the road that skirts Hartley quarry. 

Tarmac becomes track

As the road climbed, the views became more breathtaking. The Eden Valley, the Howgills, Mallerstang and the Northern Pennines. The metalled road became cobbled track up the bridleway on Hartley Fell. A beautiful, high-backed, wooden seat provided in memory of a man who clearly loved the spot, gave us the excuse to stop, take in the view and rehydrate. It was a warm day and we were going to need to drink plenty of water. We followed a wall until a fingerpost signalled a permissive path, which for a while followed the course of Faraday Gill. A runner, back pack swinging from side to side, passed us. It looked like hard work. 

Tailbridge Hill from our route up Nine Standards Rigg

The summit cairns came into view, disappeared and reappeared as we walked further up. A wooden bridge and some judiciously placed pieces of stone enabled passage over a boggy bit of the pathway. Some wooden steps had long since become redundant as the top soil had eroded from the many footsteps made by the unknown numbers who journey this way each year. Today was a dry day and the path up was relatively easy, but we were still very surprised to see a pink sparkly pair of flip flop sandals start their descent of the hill. The stuff of nightmares - the stubbed toes - the potential broken ankle - the broken leg - the callout to mountain rescue. You do wonder!

High Dukerdale from Hartley Fell

From the cairns, we made our way to the hillfinder before taking a bearing to a bridleway at Rollinson Haggs. As the name suggests, it was squelchy underfoot and there was some careful negotiation across vegetation that we knew to be bog lovers. A fairly quick descent took us across Rollinson Gill and down to a stone wall. From here we discovered the little gem of Dukerdale lit by the afternoon sunshine. We sat just a short while before taking a bearing to the summit cairn of Tailbridge Hill, our second objective. Although a path could be seen in the grass from our starting point, it may have petered out. It was a gentle up, and before very long we were standing next to quite a substantial cairn. 

Tailbridge Hill cairn

What we had not forseen was the view here on Nateby Common. It was wonderful. The village of Nateby, its neighbour, Kirkby Stephen and the hills that surround the Upper Eden Valley. A good place to finish the last of the coffee and drink in the surroundings.

Taking in the view from Tailbridge Hill

Carefully, we dropped down quite quickly to a stone wall. We followed it until we joined the minor Nateby road, coming full circle at Stenkrith Bridge. Looking down we saw where we had joined the viaduct walk earlier in the day.

Looking back towards Tailbridge Hill

From the familiar to the new - Tailbridge Hill had been a revelation. Earlier in the day we had shared our walking plans with a passing dog walker. 

'That will be a nice walk.'

Rather an understatement.

 

Green Bell & Randygill Top

Green Bell & Randygill Top

6.6 miles

 As the walking day was to start late and the forecast was for very good visibility, we thought we'd 'bag' another couple of Yorkshire 600s in the Howgills. They appear as rounded hills on the skyline, as opposed to the jagged, craggy silhouettes of the Lakeland Fells. They almost seem neglected, as the long distance footpaths of the 'Coast to Coast' and the 'Dalesway' eschews them. Sedburgh, a stoppover point on the 'Dalesway', provides a gateway for the Southern Howgills should long distance walkers wish to be lured away from their main objective. To the west, the M6 carries the walker to the lakes. I wonder if they realise what a jewel they are missing out on.

Path up Pinksey

We parked to the side of a minor road between Newbiggin-on-Lune and Weasdale. We took a bearing from the road at a fingerpost, as although a footpath was signed, there was no evidence on the ground up Pinksey. It was somewhat soggy underfoot. We paced and timed our progress, eventually linking up with a less than convincing track further uphill. Two figures were ahead of us on the skyline.

Howgill ponies

Much to our surprise, we were greeted by two friendly Howgill ponies. Sadly, we had nothing to offer them, but they seemed happy with their lot munching on the hillside grass. Our route took us below the highest point on Stwarth, where we had our first proper view of the first objective.

Towards Green Bell

Heading due south, we could see a clearly defined path through the rough grassland. Typically, the trig point of Green Bell couldn't be seen until we had virtually reached it. Perhaps the olympic spirit had subconsciously got to AB, but uncharacteristically there was a raising of the arms in triumph as the summit was 'bagged.' Our lunchtime spot gave us great views of other Howgill tops. 

Green Bell trig point

We headed off south-east along a clear way, quickly losing height before the gentle climb up to the cairn on Randygill Top.

Randygill Top cairn

A couple of photos and we headed off down to Leathgill Bridge - a grassy col linking Randygill Top with Hooksey. From here we had a good view of Leath Gill as it joined Bowderdale. It was only a short pull up onto the highest point on Hooksey, taking a path which followed the centre of the broad ridge. Descending all the time, we reached a corner in a stone wall. (The edge of access land) It was a little soggy in places as we followed the wall boundary through a metal farm gate until we came to a minor road at Cow Bank.

Path up Hooksey taken from Randygill Top

From enclosed fields, we could hear the buzz of a tractor collecting up rolls of hay. As we headed along the road through the tiny hamlet of Weasdale, our presence was acknowledged through an open farmhouse door as friends stood chatting. 

We had passed only one other walker.
The fells had been ours for the day - so lucky.

Nine Standards Rigg

Nine Standards Rigg

662m

Nine Standards Rigg - a name engraved in the memories of 'Coast to Coasters'. It's situated some 4.5 miles from the small market town of Kirkby Stephen, and on a good day the cairns that give it it's name can be clearly seen from the town.

Its summit marks the Pennine watershed. On the Kirkby Stephen side, all watercourses flow to the west. As the summit is crossed, the walker soon finds themselves in Yorkshire, the watercourses flowing east to the North Sea.

Nine Standards is often the subject of conversation on walking forums as it has the reputation of being boggy. AW (Wainwright), in his Pictorial Guide, details three potential routes for the walker heading to Keld from Kirkby Stephen, according to the time of year. In 2010 we took the 'blue August to November' route which heads east before dropping down into Whitsundale. It was indeed boggy as we traversed peat hags. Before our 'crossing' in 2010, the subject of which route to take was very much to the fore amongst fellow walkers, as the weather was not promising.

Cloud finally revealing the Nine Standards - August 2010

That first climb of Nine Standards was shrouded in mystery. It rained. Clouds hung low. Our objective was elusive as mist swirled around and the 'up' seemed interminable. We weren't alone, as it seemed many were making the journey that day. It wasn't until we were within the last 100m or so that we finally saw them - the stone cairns - as the mist lifted and the rain ceased. We'd seen pictures of the standards, but nothing had quite prepared us for the sheer size of them. Many theories abound about why they're there. But if they were to feign  an army encampment, a better situation they could not command.

What we had not appreciated, on that first climb of Nine Standards Rigg, was the view from the top. There had been none. Fast forward to April 2012. A beautiful, clear day with blue sky and sunshine. As we climbed higher the views grew more expansive. The path took us through pure white snow, which looked stunning against the unsullied sky. We had sat on a ledge on one of the cairns to drink coffee and eat our lunch. We were in no rush - we weren't heading to Keld on this occasion. The objective was to enjoy the view that had elluded us nearly two years previously.

Nine Standards Rigg - April 2012

Today our climb of Nine Standards Rigg was but a part of a circular route. A blue sky and broken white cloud cheered us as we made our way up. The path was dry in all but a few places and visibility was good. The legs didn't seem to ache as much this time. Coffee and our packed lunch were eagerly awaited. Others were at the top today, but we still managed to find a 'perch' on one of the cairns. 

Wild Boar Fell from Nine Standards Rigg

Below us, the Upper Eden Valley, spotted with trees, lay before us like a blanket. To the north, the Northern Pennines stretched out into the distance and 'toy' lorries made their way along the A66. To the south, stood the Mallerstang Ridge and Wild Boar Fell. To the south-west, the Howgills. We picked out the fell that we had climbed earlier in the week. In front of us, the Lake District fells provided the backdrop. Little had we realised, on that rainy August day two years ago, what we had missed. We could return to this spot again and again and it would always refresh the soul. Facing east lay miles and miles of empty moorland - not our objective today.

High Seat from Nine Standards Rigg

'It was a fairly gentle climb up', said one walker at the summit into his mobile phone. 
'We've got the boggy bit now.'
He was walking east.

Approach to the summit of Nine Standards Rigg - 10th August 2012

 

Yorkshire 600s

Where to go?

The Howgills

What a fabulous day for walking! 

We checked out the Mountain Weather Information Service website yesterday evening and early this morning. All was looking favourable - no rain, cloud-free summits, negligible wind and good visibility.

Several options were discussed, but as we were unable to start walking until late morning, something close at hand was favoured. Our walk today would enable us to 'bag' a couple of Yorkshire 600s.

Away from the madding crowds of the Lake District and the honeypot villages of the Dales, The Howgills seemed an obvious choice. Now and again it's wonderful to find a walk when the only people about are those that are silhouetted on the horizon. A walk that when you stop, only a far off bleat can be heard. A lunchtime spot that gives 360 degrees of fabulous fellside views... the Lakeland crags, the Northern Pennines, The Dales, as well as The Howgills.

Looking beyond the A685, key features from Wainwright's Coast to Coast could be recognised...the distinctive white church at Orton, Sunbiggin Tarn and Smardale Fell (It's viaduct could also be seen). Nobody knows how many would be walking that route today as they made their way to Kirkby Stephen.

A solitary figure passed us as we 'bagged' our first objective of the walk and drank in the views. 

For a get-away-from-the-world walk, The Howgills could not have been bettered today.