Escapees

Escapees

Today's forecast was for rain and low cloud, so a long walk up in the hills was not particularly appealing. The shortened railway walk would at least get us out for a bit of exercise and we could buy a few provisions at the end. (Monday being market day)

As we started our walk, it was already raining steadily, but it had not at that point set in for the day. (Well, you have to be optimistic!) It was a little squelchy as we crossed the sheep fields along the line of the footpath. The kissing gate at Stenkrith Park had been left unlatched by someone, but we secured it once we'd gone through. (Don't want to give walkers a bad press!) The sounds from the River Eden were not as loud as they had been on Saturday afternoon. Sure enough, when we crossed the footbridge at Stenkrith Falls, there was very little water coming down and it was being channelled by the slab-like river bed. We had had a dry day yesterday, so it was hardly surprising.

Little water at Stenkrith Falls

We turned onto the disused railway once more. It was raining more heavily now and it was raining leaves too, as the breeze was tearing the few remaining leaves from their branches. We hadn't yet reached the first old railway bridge that crosses the walk. We hadn't come across anyone out walking. It was too late for the early morning dog walkers and, what with the rain and it being a work day, we didn't expect to meet anyone. However, we were surprised to come across a posse of sheep.

About 100m ahead of us, a couple of sheep were slowly walking across the hardened footpath. Naturally, we stopped. They simply shouldn't have been there. Looking to our left, amongst the trees and surrounding a stone that forms part of the 'Poetry' path, we saw at least another eight or so. They were happily enjoying their new territory. Over to the right, other sheep were making their bid for freedom from a field. We didn't investigate where they were escaping from. Who should we tell? There were no obvious farm buildings nearby.

Bid for freedom

Very quickly, we reached the Hartley road and, before long, we were back in the market place. What to do about the sheep? Well, we reported the breakout bid. 

They say that, 'The grass is always greener on the other side'. I'm sure the sheep were having a great time exploring beyond their normal boundary, but their field was definitely more lush. Hopefully, the farmer would get them safely gathered back in.

Once again... there was something new... something surprising... that changed the day and the walk from being far from ordinary.

Railway & Riverside

Railway & Riverside - Kirkby Stephen

3.5 Miles

Today was the inaugural walk for my new boots.

With the prospect of a walk up Raise, in the Lake District National Park, to look forward to in the middle of the week, I decided that I should treat the boots (and my feet) to a short, flat walk. The previous ones had certainly walked some miles... two long distance footpaths and numerous day walks, but they had not had the best care and attention and it was starting to show.

From the market square in Kirkby Stephen, we walked south down the main street until we came to a public footpath sign at South Road. The boots seemed strange on the feet as they have a deeper sole - I appeared to have grown another inch. We turned through a gate and walked across a couple of grass fields, before coming to another clearly marked gate taking us through another field. A kissing gate gave us entry onto Nateby Road, where we turned right. After a little road walking, we turned into Stenkrith Park through a gate. (We were now on our favourite railway walk). We could hear that we were not far from the River Eden. We had had a day of rain yesterday, so we were curious to find out just how much water would be coming down the falls just underneath Stenkrith Bridge. The usual visible riverbed channels were submerged under the torrent of water. Quite a sight.

Stenkrith waterfall

 Onwards onto the actual disused railway we continued. It doesn't matter how many times we've walked this way, there's always something different. Many of the trees had shed their leaves, others were yellowing or browning. The way was carpeted for us in many hues. 

Person, or persons unknown had been along to coppice some of the trees since we'd last come this way. There was good visibility of Tailbridge Hill, but the hills of the Northern Pennines looked dark in the distance. I quietly (and briefly) tried out the acoustic under one of the bridges we passed under, and then it wasn't long before we had crossed both viaducts and joined the Hartley Road. So, a little bit of downhill. The boots held my feet well; they didn't slip forward...so far so good.

We took a little footpath off to the left to avoid a bit of the road before rejoining it at NY783085. 

FP avoiding the road

 This was Hartley. We stayed on the road, keeping the beck on our left until we came to NY783086. Here we crossed a small narrow footbridge. We turned left and then right (passing the parish noticeboard) into a narrow road serving just a couple of dwellings. We continued along the walled footpath to a small gate (now without its fastening) and continued on the hard surfaced path through a field, keeping the wall on our right. A kissing gate brought us beside the River Eden once more and the approach to Frank's Bridge. 

Rather than cross the river, we took the muddy, grass footpath at NY776087 through the cricket ground and over a footbridge to meet with the Hartley Road again.

Riverside FP

This was new territory. We walked north to Lowmill Bridge. Here, we took the riverside footpath on the eastern side of the river. In places the path came down to near river level, but hidden tree roots were the potential hazards for the unwary. The water was rushing along as if late... no time to stop.  

River Eden

No turgid, sluggish river here. The footpath brought us to another small footbridge over another gushing watercourse which joined the Eden on our left. We joined the road from a small gate at NY774095 and crossed over New Bridge. 

This was the main road into Kirkby Stephen from the north. We could have just followed it along the path into the town, but we decided to take the riverside footpath on the western side of the Eden. Our destination was a sawmill... intriguing! It was clear that much has been done to make this initial part of the footpath an amenity, as many young trees have been planted. 

To our surprise a stone seat had also been built. Further along, nearer to the river, a metal bench of the typical 'park' variety had been placed for contemplation. Before long, the path narrowed and passed behind first commercial buildings, and then private homes with immaculate looking gardens. We walked through a gate and a covered archway to find ourselves in the yard of the sawmill. I don't know why, (the signpost had said sawmill) but it still seemed a strange destination for the end of a footpath.

We were back at Lowmill Bridge, but on the town side of it. (NY775090) Rather than join the main road, we kept to the side road ahead of us, heading south with the church in front of us. At NY775088, we took the footpath through the churchyard and cloisters back to our starting point, the market square.

Kirkby Stephen church

I'm sure the extension to the railway walk will become a favourite. It's lovely every now and again to be able to go for a walk without needing to take a map. 

The boots? Well, the boots were somewhat mud splattered, but the feet were dry. All being well, they'll get another outing tomorrow.

Smardale Gill Circular

Smardalegill Circular 

12 miles

A relatively low level ramble; we walked this circular at the end of July. 

We started from the market place in Kirkby Stephen and headed north before turning into Silver Street and Christian Head. Just past the entrance to Kirkby Stephen Grammar School, we turned left into Bloody Bones Lane, leaving the tarmac behind. Our gently climbing route followed a field boundary in an westerly direction. We had a choice of paths at a field gate. Seeing cows and their young, we avoided them by taking a footpath along a farm track and through the farmyard at Sandwath. Our presence prompted a chorus of barking from the residents of kennels there. We were pleased to reach the quiet of a minor road and set off down it for some 500 metres or so until we reached the second of two bridges over railway cuttings.

Waitby Nature Reserve

Steps down gave access to Waitby nature reserve (a dismantled railway). Walking west, we followed the curve of the former line. It was a peaceful walk along a permissive path, brightened by all manner of wild flowers just reaching perfection.

The nature reserve path came out at Smardale Hall. We followed Beck Lane for 100 metres before turning south into a car park which served the start of the Smardale Gill National Nature Reserve. 

Signage in the car park

Car parks often signal popularity. Along this stretch of our walk we met several people out for a stroll through the wooded Demesne Wood.  Before long, we were heading south and enjoying a light shower. Eventually, the rain ceased and we came to the impressive curve of Smardalegill Viaduct. We could have continued over the viaduct, but we wanted to be able to see the product of Victorian engineering and toil.

We left broad way, taking a small footpath which contoured the hillside. We left the strollers, who preferred to cross the viaduct. Our picnic spot had an unrivalled view of the viaduct and Scandal Beck far below. As we munched, thoughts inevitably turned to the hundreds and maybe thousands who must have laboured in difficult conditions, without the benefit of 'health and safety', to make the transport of raw materials and eventually passengers possible in the nineteenth century. The beauty of the structure was not in question. It was only spoilt by the late twentieth century addition of railing to protect foot traffic.

Smardalegill Viaduct

Onwards and upwards. Our footpath took us to a stile, which we crossed, before heading down a little until we joined up with the bridleway that forms part of Wainwright's Coast to Coast route. Down to the right was the old Smardale Bridge. Our route, however, turned east up over the access land on Smardale Fell. It was a steady up as we followed a wall boundary. Here, once again, we noticed that the drystone walls were a mixture of grey and the red of sandstone. We had noticed the change in land colour some two years previously when we walked the Coast to Coast route. We had been amazed at the vibrant earth that had characterised the west coast of England near to St. Bees. From now on we would be following the route taken by 'coasters' on their approach to Kirkby Stephen.

Looking back to Smardalegill Viaduct from near Smardale Bridge

The bridleway ran alongside two closely parallel walls which reminded me of a gallops. Behind us, the Howgills were being threatened by ominous looking clouds which were following us. Would we be pulling our wet weather clothes from our rucksacks? Ahead, high on the skyline, were the tiny cairns guarding Nine Standards Rigg. We headed downhill to a minor road. We turned south west along it for 150 metres and took another small road off to the left. After another 150 metres, we were heading off across the fields along a clearly visible footpath. We passed underneath the Settle-Carlisle railway line and continued through fields of photogenic sheep to Greenriggs Farm. Skirting the farm buildings, we joined up with Croglam Lane which eventually runs parallel with the main road through Kirkby Stephen.

Croglam Lane

We continued along the lane until we came to a small children's playground. Turning right onto a narrow tarmac road, we joined Kirkby Stephen High Street. A left turn took us back in the direction of the market place.

It had been a lovely walk of varied terrain. As we had walked over Smardale Fell we were treated to wonderful views of the Pennines. Until the last, Kirkby Stephen had stubbornly refused to reveal itself as we approached. 

Oh... and we managed to stay dry!

Eden Valley Viaduct Walk

Eden Valley Viaduct Walk - Kirkby Stephen

 2.5 miles

This is a great little circular walk starting from the tourist information centre, Market Square in Kirkby Stephen.

We headed south along the High Street. 100m after the High Street becomes South Road, a fingerpost can be seen across the road. The footpath (gently rising) crosses three fields populated with sheep before it joins the Nateby Road (B6259). With Stenkrith Hill on the left, there was just 250m of road walking before we turned through a gate into the wooded Stenkrith Park.

River Eden at Stenkrith Bridge

Here a footbridge crosses the River Eden. Upstream, the river seems to enter a cauldron as the riverbed forces the water through narrow channels before it plunges far below Stenkrith Bridge. Downstream, the river seems much more benign as it glints in dappled sunshine.

We turned east onto the now dismantled railway. It's now a beautiful walk, as the footpath curves through the former railway cutting. Coppiced trees provide gentle rustling and a dappled effect. Bridleway gates underneath railway bridges in the distance look inviting and beckon you through. Former railway buildings act as information points, telling the history of the line, and provide shelter should there be a sudden downpour. Eventually, the walk heads in a north easterly direction as it straightens out. The walk opens up as the route crosses the Podgill and Merrygill Viaducts. The Northern Pennines and Eden Valley can be seen from here. Steps down to the left enables the walker a closeup view of the amazing feat of Victorian architecture and endeavour.

Kirkby Stephen church nestling amongst the trees

The Northern Pennines

Leaving the second of the viaducts, we joined the minor Hartley road, taking off-road  footpath alternatives where they were offered. We crossed the bubbling Hartley Beck and passed pretty cottages in Hartley village. 

Hartley Beck

We headed west at the village noticeboard along a tarmac footpath that took us through a sheepfield and on towards Frank's Bridge. From here, we could see Wild Boar Fell. 

Wild Boar Fell

Once again we crossed the River Eden before heading up through a ginnel to the Market Square.

A beautiful walk... accessible to most.